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For NYC, especially financial, I'd go with mid-to upper-grade
off-the-rack. Plain, solid color, single-breasted, not over-tailored. I
used to get them direct from a manufacturer's loft in the Garment
District, but those guys are disappearing fast.
Not that anyone should take fashion advice from Tom Wolfe...
Here's an excerpt:
...the secret vice of the Big men in New York: custom tailoring and the
mania for the marginal differences that go into it. Practically all the
most powerful men in New York, especially on Wall Street, the people in
investment houses, banks and law firms, the politicians, especially
Brooklyn Democrats, for some reason, outstanding dandies, those
fellows, the blue-chip culturati, the major museum directors and
publishers, the kind who sit in offices with antique textile
shades?practically all of these men are fanatical about the marginal
differences that go into custom tailoring. They are almost like a
secret club insignia for them. And yet it is a taboo subject. They
won't talk about it. They don't want it known that they even care about
it. But all the time they have this fanatical eye, more fanatical than
a woman's, about the whole thing and even grade men by it. The worst
jerks, as far as they are concerned?and people can lose out on jobs,
promotions, the whole can of worms, because of this?are men who have
dumped a lot of money, time and care into buying ready-made clothes
from some Englishy dry goods shop on Madison Avenue with the belief
that they are really "building fine wardrobes." Such men are considered
to be bush leaguers, turkeys and wet smacks, the kind of men who tote
the leather lunch pail home at night and look forward to having a drink
and playing with the baby.
Mike O.
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